Tag Archives: Design

MEET THE NEW KID ON THE BLOCK CRBN UNISEX STREETWEAR + collabs


Making an entrance onto the Australian Fashion arena late in 2016 we have CRBN with lead designer Whitney Duan. The label is so different to regular Australian fashion labels. Which is what makes it so very interesting.

They are here to change the rules on gender.

So you are curious? How can CRBN change the rules on gender?

Well with time staking . Men are wearing skirts. Women are wearing the pants and actually whatever they want.  I mean why as a female should I wear a dress? I want to wear a skort today and I don’t care!

I want to see men in dresses not just because free balling is comfortable but why not? The only thing that has been holding back men from wearing dresses is that dresses aren’t made to fit the male form by the consumer market. Hence why CRBN is a game changer. Men can choose to wear what they want from their range. The fact physically it is a dress or a skirt is just a label and a social image that has been underpinned by oppressive social expectations handed down through generations . Its just a name we gave it to identify what it is but would it be so bad if we named a pant a skirt and a skirt a pant. In the end its the same fabric with the same stitches, the same cotton that holds it together. Just like the difference in gender. Gender is just a label male, female and most recently we have added in no gender which btw is still a label. All these names and boundaries we create ourselves as humans.

‘We have so many people wanting to dress and expand their new style from mundane commercialism. Plus with drag queens now tapping into the mainstream industry with Ru Paul’s drag race/ we have an untouched market’

 Luka Davis

Melbourne Designer & Stylist

Instagram@luka.davis

 

Whitney’s background is in Philosophy and Art History so her perception of gender is quite in tune with a general move by society to become less gender specific. We are after all a society who wants whatever we want when we want it. Socially we just want to be able to wear what we want without the backlash of social expectations. In fashion ‘different’ is the new ‘cool’. So as unisex clothing gains momentum and is starting to be seen as the new cool there are so many self styled innovators who are picking up the product and trying it. CRBN is a blend between fitted and baggy streetwear with styles you could wear everyday casually or dress up to go out and party in with an emphasis  on comfort. Now that we already have so many people out there who are innovators gaining awareness of the product and trying samples of unisex clothing in their day to day lives. Its time for early adopters like you and I to support unisex clothing and pick up the trend and deliver it to the growth stage and mass market before unisex is totally accepted and adopted into our society. So I ask you. Can you challenge your own thinking that you have been taught from birth? Can you try something different to see how it fits and feels? If your not excited by now to break the rules and kick back the boundaries of social expectation then I’m probably howling to the moon.

While working alongside CRBN as one of a select group of consultant pattern makers I sat in on quite a few late night fittings and meetings behind the end product. In collaboration of their first range I found Whitney and her partner radio spokesperson and author Eden Duan to be quite unique individuals in fact their strong bond and communication was the back bone of getting things moving at the rate that such a large collection could be developed. Developing a range this large requires so much time and effort away from regular day to day existence and as a power couple they worked together to make CRBN from just an idea to something tangible something that any designer could be proud of. Whitney Duan designer of CRBN is the new kid on the block. I am loving her cool style and needed to share it. She actually gets how contemporary humans are feeling. Lets just erase some of the labels and start again. Fashion is now geometric lines, contemporary, rule breaking, minimalistic, unisex clothing.

Author: Ashleigh Renee Evans (Secret Culture)

all links:

Buy CRBN now https://www.crbnstudios.com/

Follow CRBN on Instagram @crbnstudios

Follow CRBN on facebook https://www.facebook.com/crbnstudios/

Follow this blog for more of my fashion blogging & tutorials

Advertisements

My latest custom designer formal gown for a year 10 formal


The dress is beautiful. Absolutely stunning! Embellished in gorgeous Swarovski crystals and fine lace. The silhouette is off the shoulder panelled with a gorgeous fishtail with lace and Swarovski detail. The bodice is covered in lace as well and embellished lightly in each flower with Swarovski crystals.

 


What it means to be a third generation dressmaker


sewing is not just a craft to me. It is my life. Something taught from my mother from when I was deep within her womb. The sound of an industrial machine humming to the beat of my mothers foot. Falling asleep to the hum every night while my mother worked to support our family from home as her grandmother did her father. Dressmaking was not meant to be an easy job and can take quite a toll on each and every one of us. The smell of new fabric on the bolt. Knowing where to place that flower, bow or lace come second nature. Drawing a pattern and cutting the fabric so the flow of the garment falls amazingly. It’s just what I do.  It’s something deeply instilled in my person. Not many girls can say they have grown up playing hide and seek amongst rolls of fabric or playing cut out the doll costume when they were 4. Or even that their first injury was from sticking their finger into the turn wheel of an industrial machine while it was sewing.
 I do not sew just because I can sew and I have been taught from a young age how to guide a needle through fabric. I sew because sewing brings great joy to my life. The joy of creation and design. The ability to design from a line to a piece of fabric is something that is a dying art. I have more than ten boxes of fabric that I have hoarded over my lifetime and it makes me feel alive just looking and feeling the fabric. The endless possibilities and innovation I visualise as I run my finger across the fabric. Such beauty to be made. Not just to follow the trends set by other designers but to innovate new trends through my own creation. You can put ten designers in a room and get them to draw patterns of the same design and every one will be different. I don’t care if people copy me or my designs because no matter how hard they try it will never be the same. It will never have the same quality or finishing. I care only for creation and the joy of placing a needle through thread. 


Why sizing is so confusing 


So you are wandering through stores trying on what you think is the right size. By the end of the day you think your going crazy because your size is different no matter where you go. 

Well I’m here to tell you that no your not crazy. Every company has its own sizing charts. They have complicated ways of deciding on the correct grade for their label to fit the target market they are aiming at.

That’s not even the difficult part. The standard sizing chart for Australian clothing have only just begun to be addressed as sizing for clothing was set up in the 1950’s when children, women & men were as you know much smaller. Less hormone pumped chickens and flavourings and colourings etc.
So what size you think you are on average in the shops is actually 1-2 sizes smaller than what you actually are according to standards. This being said now that I know I’m actually a 16 instead of a 12 I’m not horrified because these standards were made more than 60 years ago. Most high fashion labels including Parisian fashion houses and what not still are guided by these old standards as they sell to petite women. Which unluckily I am not. Somehow managed to get all my fathers genes with a dash of my mothers face.

I hope I have clarified sizing just slightly. It’s the tip of the iceberg.

If you like what I have written feel free to saunter through the remainder of my blogs or jump onto Facebook, Twitter or Instagram to support my label Secret culture.

#facebook #Instagram #Twitter #Wordpress #secretculture 

Follow facebook: secret culture global fashion label 

https://www.facebook.com/DesignTeamSecretCulture
Follow Instagram: #secretculture
Follow Twitter: Ashleigh Renee Patel 

Follow blogs on WordPress: http://www.secretculture.wordpress.com
Buy the latest collection at:

http://www.secretcultureshop.com
Also: Secret culture is looking for small high end boutiques to sell street wear in. Please share xx 

  


Ethical design how do you think you can get away with being unethical?


While others are outsourcing to other countries in poorly paid factories with poor lighting and poor facilities.

Mothers are sewing in these factories and have children who are going without and workers are being paid the wrong pay so you can wear your cheap and nasty looking clothing.

Not only this the poor worker is working in filth while sweat is pouring off them because they are working so hard that the term sweat shop actually is relatable. Their arms and wrists are aching because every day they sew the same thing all day long making the same movement. Later on in life they will be riddled with arthritis and their backs will be bent from bending over a poorly lit sewing machine.

There are those of us that just don’t want to be unethical. We can see the damage it has caused to countries and the affect fast fashion has on land fill. The worst and most heart breaking affect is on the people who by their circumstances are subjected to unethical design.

We live in such a throw away society. Every time we buy something that is throw away. Something that’s cheap and in fashion that will be out of fashion next week we are contributing to this problem.

It’s not just the designer but it is also the consumer at fault here.

Meanwhile in Australia. Piece workers are doing a similar thing to compete with a market that is just so hard to compete with just so they can make a name for themselves and beat fast fashion. You see in Australia the minimum pay for piece work is $40 an hour. That being said so many designers are unwilling to pay this price because they can get it cheaper overseas. It’s a sad industry when you have to be underpaid in your own country to compete with your overseas competition. I personally have sewn piecework for labels and one in particular from Newcastle Australia who wanted to pay just $10 per garment. The garment would take me an hour to make. I could not believe the hide of this woman. So bloody cheap. Unbelievably cheap. While she gets $40 for a pair of shorts expecting me to sit there and sew all night for $10 per pair. Not only that she would be calling me to have them done overnight when I had not even had a chance to sew them. As a dressmaker and daughter of a dress maker I was quite offended by this. That’s why I felt I should speak out because she the designer who does not even design her own clothes is still doing the same thing paying pittance to other piece workers so she can get $300 for a dress. it’s disgusting. She doesn’t even make her own patterns or make any decisions in the design process. Now I hear she’s outsourcing her pattern making for $5 a patten somewhere is Russia. For someone who outwardly claims to be ethical I am so ashamed of this woman saying she is a designer and pretending to be while she profits off her unknowing customers. She just profits off actual designers and dressmakers who want so badly to use their craft that they are willing to sew for almost nothing.

My personal experience during this process was that I would be doing all nighters until 5am in the morning sewing and while the sweat was pouring off me I could not help but relate to my overseas counterparts. Who could not choose to give up their careers as piece workers. 

So as you can see even if you think the company is ethical it sometimes is not. You really need to investigate to find out before you buy.


Wedding dress 101 Why you can’t have your dress taken in too tight


You just can’t have your dress too tight and I will go into this in gory detail.

Firstly the wedding dress you wear is the most important part of your wedding. If your dress is too tight you suddenly develop roles of fat which are pouring out from your underarms or the back. The waist looks like the fabric has stretched because it’s been taken in too much.

Ok so there are some ways around this and you should ask your dressmaker or designer what you can do if you need the dress to be so tight your waist looks like your wearing a corset.

But let me repeat myself there is nothing worse than a cheap looking wedding dress that has popped.

Your a size bigger than your sister or your girlfriend and you just wanted to look smaller. We all know what it’s like but please for your own sake and the sake of your wedding do not make your dress so tight you need to squeeze into it.

There is nothing worse at a wedding than the brides dress popping. It’s absolutely horrifying and the stuff of nightmares. I’ve actually seen this with my own eyes and it definitely wasn’t a dress that I made. Invisible zippers are known for popping on girls who are wearing dresses that are too tight. When I saw this happen it became a drama for half the night and the bride ended up being so rude to her sister even I was disgusted. Horrified even after bridezilla reared her ugly head. Poor uninformed size 22. I felt very sorry for her while her bridesmaids attempted to use giant safety pins to pin her together. Omg! What a scary terrible wedding. I was just a young waitress at the time but I really felt sorry for the girl. She just wanted to look smaller and it ruined her wedding.

Imagine your walking around casually and then your dress pops.

There is no going back. Once your dress has popped your wedding goes down hill. You have to change into your honey moon clothes if you have them with you. Brides worst nightmare walking around casually in her Bahama thongs, casual jeans and tshirt she wears on weekends while her size 8 bridesmaids are swanning around in gorgeous little cocktail dresses.

At least pack some back up clothes please and not the variety you find in supre or just jeans.


Dealing with Bridemaidzilla a Dressmakers guide


So here we go. If you haven’t seen it before the bridezilla is becoming a rarity. It’s more or less bridesmaidzilla in the marriage department nowadays. I’ve seen it more than once and I’m sure I will see it again.

The girlfriends who want to look better than the bride or who want to turn themselves into a size 8 when they are really an 18.

Well the only way to deal with this breed is to make sure that they are fully informed before they get their dresses made or altered. If your a size 18 I can’t use my magic sewing wand and turn you into an 8. What I can do is fit the dress to your size and ensure that the style you choose matches your particular shape.

About shape. All these apples pears and mangoes are all wrong after a certain size. As far as I can see you are the shape you are and you will only look as good as you can look. Which is great as long as you choose the right style.


On shoot with Kovachrome and Secret Culture a sneak peak of artist photographer Amy Kovacs and designer Ashleigh Patel’s up and coming collection summer 2015


If you like what you see you can look at more online portfolio work by kovachrome on facebook at

https://www.facebook.com/kovachromephotography

And follow secret culture local newcastle designer label on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/DesignTeamSecretCulture

Or on Instagram #secretculture

Also please follow this blog for further updates on secret culture an up and coming designer label. The journey of a fresh designer;)

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/ab4/14377787/files/2015/01/img_3719.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/ab4/14377787/files/2015/01/img_3720.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/ab4/14377787/files/2015/01/img_3721.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/ab4/14377787/files/2015/01/img_3722.jpg


Size 14 Asian Elegance!Double Bow Tomoko Nagamichi inspired cocktail dress”One off”


Here we have an Asian style Tomoko Nagamichi (famous Japanese Pattern Maker)inspired Cocktail Dress. It is joined at the Waist with Double darts on the back of skirt and side darts as the fabric has been wrapped around the figure to remove side seams.Front Tucks for added comfort as you and I both know stomachs expand and decrease. This will mean you will have a little extra room and your dress isn’t likely to pop when you have an extra spring roll at the party.The dress is fitted mainly to the hip and arm and has extra fullness in the bodice for women with a larger bust size.The sleeve has inverted pleats allowing extra room and comfort of movement.On the front bodice we have the Tomoko Nagamichi inspired double bow. This can be tied however you like.There are French darts from the side seams to add extra elegance and poise to the design.The design is fully lined in a black polyester with an invisible zipper.

To Fit:

Bust:96-100cm

Waist: 80cm

Hips: 100cm

If you like this design and want to follow Secret Culture’s blog please go to http://www.secretcultureshop.com

This is Design 8 in Secret Cultures 50 Designs in 50 Days Challenge!


50 designs in 50 days 8 001
50 designs in 50 days 8 002 50 designs in 50 days 8 005 50 designs in 50 days 8 007 50 designs in 50 days 8 009

Buy it now $144.95

Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200877355835#ht_665wt_1186

Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/listing/120110759/size-14-asian-elegance-double-bow-tomoko


Size 10 Strapless Floral dress “Cup Size B Bust” with top stitched detail on boned structure


This is design 7 of Secret Cultures 50 designs in 50 days challenge!

50 designs in 50 days 7 004 50 designs in 50 days 7 006 50 designs in 50 days 7 008Here we have petite Size 10 (small make) with measurements 

 
Bust: 84 cm
 
Waist: 60 cm
 
Hips: 84 cm
 
It is a Strapless Floral dress “Cup Size B Bust” with boned structure.

 
This is a one-off!!!!
 
The skirt is a lovely crepe which is gathered to the bodice at the waist. The bodice is made of a polyester.
 
This is design 7 of Secret Cultures 50 designs in 50 days challenge!If you like what you see follow this blog to find out what will be tomorrows design!
Buy it now $74.95
On EBAY: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200877116875#ht_679wt_1186
On ETSY: https://www.etsy.com/listing/120053556/size-10-strapless-floral-dress-cup-size

 


%d bloggers like this: