Authentic Creatives & designers a dying group

Designers and original makers are dying out. We are going extinct and being replaced with big machinery and cheap overseas labour. Not only that whenever we make something that is authentic it is copied. That I don’t mind. I just want to let people know that working with our hands and a sewing machine is an art form and the fact that you meet someone who can sketch an image, draw their own pattern, cut and sew from start to finish is rare nowadays and I’m amongst the youngest in this field in Australia that can make anything from the beginning.

When you look at a dress in a retail store that costs $350 it has went through so many hands for each piece and the fabric sourced all over the world but made in less than an hour. When an authentic creative makes you something for $350 +++ it would of taken many more hours or days to produce. The sewing of retail clothing is hardly done in Australia nowadays and is mostly done in India, Bali, China, Phillipines, Turkey etc where the dollar is cheaper. I don’t mind that but do not compare an authentic designer or creative who makes one off designs or capsule collections to the mass produced market or to something you buy from the retail store.

For 19 + years I have been slowly learning my craft. Just bits a pieces here and there picking up every piece of knowledge that I can from people, from books and just generally learning as much as I can of anything at all that I can apply to my field. It is my obsession and my dream. I am young to be running my own business as a Designer Dressmaker but I created my job because I saw a need in the market. Plus until I started calling myself The Designer Dressmaker nobody else had put those words together. The decline of dressmaking and especially dressmakers that make their own patterns is obvious in Australia adding further value to what is left. We are a dime a dozen. Help contribute to Australian dressmakers or local dressmakers if you aren’t Australian because otherwise we may just die out and who shall you buy an authentic designer dress from.

I’m going to rock this year. You should too. 🤘🏻

MEET THE NEW KID ON THE BLOCK CRBN UNISEX STREETWEAR + collabs

Making an entrance onto the Australian Fashion arena late in 2016 we have CRBN with lead designer Whitney Duan. The label is so different to regular Australian fashion labels. Which is what makes it so very interesting.

They are here to change the rules on gender.

So you are curious? How can CRBN change the rules on gender?

Well with time staking . Men are wearing skirts. Women are wearing the pants and actually whatever they want.  I mean why as a female should I wear a dress? I want to wear a skort today and I don’t care!

I want to see men in dresses not just because free balling is comfortable but why not? The only thing that has been holding back men from wearing dresses is that dresses aren’t made to fit the male form by the consumer market. Hence why CRBN is a game changer. Men can choose to wear what they want from their range. The fact physically it is a dress or a skirt is just a label and a social image that has been underpinned by oppressive social expectations handed down through generations . Its just a name we gave it to identify what it is but would it be so bad if we named a pant a skirt and a skirt a pant. In the end its the same fabric with the same stitches, the same cotton that holds it together. Just like the difference in gender. Gender is just a label male, female and most recently we have added in no gender which btw is still a label. All these names and boundaries we create ourselves as humans.

‘We have so many people wanting to dress and expand their new style from mundane commercialism. Plus with drag queens now tapping into the mainstream industry with Ru Paul’s drag race/ we have an untouched market’

 Luka Davis

Melbourne Designer & Stylist

Instagram@luka.davis

 

Whitney’s background is in Philosophy and Art History so her perception of gender is quite in tune with a general move by society to become less gender specific. We are after all a society who wants whatever we want when we want it. Socially we just want to be able to wear what we want without the backlash of social expectations. In fashion ‘different’ is the new ‘cool’. So as unisex clothing gains momentum and is starting to be seen as the new cool there are so many self styled innovators who are picking up the product and trying it. CRBN is a blend between fitted and baggy streetwear with styles you could wear everyday casually or dress up to go out and party in with an emphasis  on comfort. Now that we already have so many people out there who are innovators gaining awareness of the product and trying samples of unisex clothing in their day to day lives. Its time for early adopters like you and I to support unisex clothing and pick up the trend and deliver it to the growth stage and mass market before unisex is totally accepted and adopted into our society. So I ask you. Can you challenge your own thinking that you have been taught from birth? Can you try something different to see how it fits and feels? If your not excited by now to break the rules and kick back the boundaries of social expectation then I’m probably howling to the moon.

While working alongside CRBN as one of a select group of consultant pattern makers I sat in on quite a few late night fittings and meetings behind the end product. In collaboration of their first range I found Whitney and her partner radio spokesperson and author Eden Duan to be quite unique individuals in fact their strong bond and communication was the back bone of getting things moving at the rate that such a large collection could be developed. Developing a range this large requires so much time and effort away from regular day to day existence and as a power couple they worked together to make CRBN from just an idea to something tangible something that any designer could be proud of. Whitney Duan designer of CRBN is the new kid on the block. I am loving her cool style and needed to share it. She actually gets how contemporary humans are feeling. Lets just erase some of the labels and start again. Fashion is now geometric lines, contemporary, rule breaking, minimalistic, unisex clothing.

Author: Ashleigh Renee Evans (Secret Culture)

all links:

Buy CRBN now https://www.crbnstudios.com/

Follow CRBN on Instagram @crbnstudios

Follow CRBN on facebook https://www.facebook.com/crbnstudios/

Follow this blog for more of my fashion blogging & tutorials

All photos from official CRBN Instagram.

Models have links in Instagram for recognition.

 

 

photo from insta @peajitamornpanna

follow my Instagram @secretculture

follow my facebook Secret Culture Beauty and fashion

 

Margaret Olley an Inspiration for All Artists Everywhere

English: Margaret Olley at the Reopening of the Maitland Regional Art Gallery. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

I am absolutely fascinated with Margaret Olley so much so that last study period I attempted to paint her face on my textiles visual diary…You can buy them with canvas nowadays……Which is awesome:)

Back on topic.Margaret Olley is fascinating mainly because of how she lived and how she painted.Her works span back from the last 60-70 years at least.She would set up a space in her home and paint and then set up another space and paint.She might leave those sets as they are for some time and not move her subjects so that she continue painting her perfect set when she has time. Arguably it has been said that she actually got better over the period of her life which I heard somewhere or rather is unusual because we should all be good while we are young and peak in talent instead of peaking as we age.I hope that I am the same. I know with studying print making aswell as management, marketing and now finishing a diploma in fashion for the next 4 months my work load is humongous. Let’s not forget my husband expects a clean home and dinner on the table…….I took from Margaret this sense of joy and excitement that she never let anyone get in the way of what she wanted to paint and what she wanted to do.She was hard working and often woke up early in the morning to climb to the obelisk in Newcastle to make some painting of the water or whatever might take her fancy.On the 24th there was an amzing documentary on ABC called Margaret Olley “A Life in paint”.

You can purchase a copy on the internet from Catherine Hunter who created the doco (www.artbrief.com.au) or contact her privately via email chunter@yesno.com.au she is very lovely and has made many more documentaries in the past!

All her films can be found at the Art Gallery of NSW and various other galleries.

If you would like to pay money for this documentary it is awesome.If you are like me and watched it already she is a fantastic artist to research just for her spirit and love of art. Her dedication to Australian artists and portfolio of paintings may just inspire a print. Who knows her spirit might wash over you like I feel it has to me.It is strange because she is from the same age as my nan and looks and reminds me totally of her although my nan didn’t paint because she was more submissive and domesticated and the perfect wife.She was more a cooker and cleaner. My pa was the painter and he would paint for hours in his little room.He would first take a photograph of what he wanted to capture and then amazingly transfer that to a painting.He painted with watercolours whilst I am quite sure that Olley painted with acrylics although don’t quote me on that one.There was a part of the documentary that talked about artists and how they paint. This idea is transferable to print and to us!No matter who you are you have your own personality and your own order of thinking. Your own way of organising.How you lay your roller. How you roll on the ink. How much pressure you press into the tile or on the paper. What technique you like to use the most and even though you have been taught other ways you still think your way brings the best image and en-captures what you are trying to encapsulate. You will always have your own style when creating and that is what makes your art have meaning.When someone sees a good print they will first think wow that is a good print and then wonder how they printed it.The majority of our research has been based on how another artist has printed the picture and that meaning transfers another image to mind of the process.I am not sure if this is just me but when I see art that I like I imagine the artist creating that piece. What tools they used. How lightly they pressed those tools, how delicately pressure was applied to create that stroke or cut that stone.when I see a garment I like I think of the pattern pieces that were used to make it and how it was sewn. I think of where their inspiration comes from. This all seems to happen like the jolt of energy that we usually call a brain wave immersing my brain with images that somehow inspire me to create my own art.With Margaret Olley the idea of her life and dedication to art has excited me more than any other about art and her inspiration is something that we all can use a piece of. It is something that brightens the eyes and lightens the brain. You almost feel like your floating on a cloud of inspiration and whilst watching the documentary I almost felt like pulling out my own painting set and creating immediately although had to withdraw from that idea because I have so many other projects that are under way at current.I hope this might inspire you all and might help you find that sparkle in your eye for now and into the future!

Fashion Illustration

The best designers have excellent skills in illustration

This is especially so with Fashion Designers. I am going to upload quite a few images from my portfolio and I would ask that if these images are copied that people can at-least draw their own versions!

Fashion illustration has been a hobby of mine since I was a small child. In high school when I was selected to study at White house for a short course scholarship in illustration was really when I started to understand the form and shapes involved but it was not until I was studying my Diploma in Fashion Design and we had a more intensive course in illustration did I start to think more about shading and using copic markers. Rendering without drawing black lines everywhere. As it can be so tempting to do at times.lol.I have drawn some really bad illustrations and I am definitely still learning. I am still young and would call myself a beginner in the field of illustration however with this skill if you learn it well you can conquer the world finding a place in the hearts of many. I would like you to link my Blog to your Facebook page if you do;).Or even if you don’t think about sharing it with other fashion entrepreneurs.

Front view Croquis

So firstly you start with drawing the croquis which is a shell of the body without any rendering. Rendering is how you fill the image e.g. lead pencil rendering, ink, copic marker, water colours, chalk, paint. So this croquis will show you the basic silhouette of the form your wishing to drape your design onto. All illustrators would have atleast 20 or more of these basic shapes or as they design would think of a body type and position for which they would like their design displayed and draw this basic croquis that they can draw onto. What this means is that if you draw half the image and screw up majorly with a basic slip of the brush or pen you can simply retrace the image off this croquis and make any adaptations you would like. You can also keep the image in a basic A3 folder for when you may like to practise another image your designing and so on.

Fashion illustrations have their own scale and that has been a century old tradition dating back to the Greeks where they defined the perfect human body as following the golden mean.The golden mean is a way of using symmetry, proportion and harmony to define perfection.All very mathematical rather as you will find out if you read this article: http://www.investopedia.com/articles/technical/04/033104.asp#axzz1jbGdZOgs

This perfection in illustration is the ability to draw between a scale of 1-9 or 1-10 if you count the feet of a body.

Drawing Croquis

Grab your A3 design folio or A3 visual art diary (or more expensive ink proof paper that costs a ridiculous amount).If you are just practising it would be best to start on the cheaper side of the wheel because it will literally take you a couple of hundred drawings before you start to appreciate your own work as even resembling decency.Unless you are super spectacular because you may be:)

Scale your page from 1-10 using your chosen width that you calculated earlier.Then write the numbers down the side 1-10 so that you know which is which. Draw a center line lightly so that you can cut the body in two sides. The head is the most important beginning of drawing your croquis. This is because the width and height of your head define the width of certain parts of your body.Draw an egg shaped head between 0-1 and make sure it is centred appropriately.

between 1-2 you will be drawing your shoulders which should be the value of 1 and a half heads either side of centre front and also half way between 1 and 2 unless you are drawing a shape that is standing in a different pose.Shoulders meet the neck at 1.5 heads down.Chest is at 2. Waits and elbows should be on 3 and the waist should have 3/4 heads width.Hips and wrists on 4.The crutch is at 4 1/4. Hands reach 5. Knees 6. widest part of calf is at 7 1/4 – 7 1/2. 9 is the beginning of the feet.

Contemporary Fashion Illustration Techniques

There are many books that have been written on fashion illustration however it is up to you on which ones you empathise with and can really gain something out of. For up and coming designers Naoki Watanabe is fabulous to start with.

Colors For Modern Fashion / Drawing Fashion With Colored Markers Nancy Riegelman Nine Heads Media

For the more experienced that would like to brush up their own techniques “Colours For Modern Fashion-Drawing Fashion With Coloured Markers” Nancy Riegelman is probably the best reference around atm. The book depository sells these for fantastic prices and if you are looking for bargains Ebay can be fabulous when trying to buy these very in demand Illustration guides.

Angles of the Body

The body leans in many different ways depending on how you are standing. Just remember that the centre of your body is defined by the hollow at the base of your neck down. No matter what stance you have this will display the central most part of your body.Also when drawing different poses it is easy to draw guidelines of the direction you want your shoulders waist and hips. Even drawing little circles for wrists, shoulders, ankles and knees will help in drawing the croquis that you are after.

Drawing an illustration from photography:

Renel

Bikini Collection

A good designer can look at a magazine and see an image or a pose of a girl and then draw that image in the proportions of a fashion illustration equally splitting the points of the body into the perfect mean. As no human is actually perfect sometimes it can be hard to split the body into perfection without losing certain likenesses. Although with practise this will become very easy.

Swimsuit Illustration

After you redraw the shape of the person into the prefect croquis for your design you then draw your design onto the form making sure you take into account the shape of the body and how parts will be different shapes. E.g the calf muscles being bigger at the top below the knee then smaller towards the bottom. The arms will be bigger nearer the shoulder than the wrist.

Rendering an Illustration:

Some basic tools you might want to invest in.

Here is a photograph of my copic markers and water colours that I use for basic rendering of illustrations.

Rendered Swimsuit Illustration

Next rendering the illustration: You can do this using basic techniques of pencil and copic markers and it will look fabulous after you have practised and sorted out the best way for you to render your image. You can also use black ink or any other material that you think may suit the way you would like to display your image.This illustration was a buttons collection that I designed a swimwear range based on. Hence I have tried to bring in some elements from that idea like the needle and thread.

African Lady

These are some Illustrations I completed whilst practising for my course last year.I am not especially happy with the lines in either but this is the sort of thing we are aiming for when rendering. The more you practise the better it will get. Especially when using copic markers.

Asian Styling

 

Asian Styling Variation2

Drawing Womens Faces:

Facial Illustration

The more you draw the more you want to make your facial illustrations look beautiful. You can do this by practising on a larger scale.

Split an A3 page into 1 head length and then draw 2/3rds of that length as the width. Draw a big egg head shape and then split it further into half both ways length and width. then 1/2 of 1/2 and 1/2 of 1/4 this will mean that you will have the basic lines in place to draw your face. Your eyes are half way nose is just before 1/4 and your lips just above the 1/8 line. Your eyes are half of half the width of the head and this width is also the separation between the eyes.

Drawing Men’s Faces:

Mens Facial Illustration

Men have squarish features usually in fashion illustration. The illusion of having more angular features is very attractive and so that is why they are dran like this. They also have larger foreheads and more angular jaw structures.Thinner lips and chunkier eyebrows.

Drawing Male Croquis:

male croquis

Also with drawing men’s croqui’s you do not tighten the waist of a man as they are all muscle. Drawing a waist will actually make the illustration look like a manly woman.It’s more like broad shoulders and tiny hips making the man look more masculine rather than effeminate. That is the main change between drawing fashions for males and females in illustration.

Current Collection:

Current Collection

I generally draw all my collections onto basic croquis when I am designing because I find them efficient in deciding what looks good and what looks bad on a form. You can then draw the illustration from this image.Here is one I have been preparing for my current Autumn/ Winter Collection 2012.

Tie Dress with Boat Neck and Japanese Stylisation

This is my croquis for my Japanese Bow Boat Neck dress before rendering.

Rendered Boat Neck Japanese Bow Dress Illustration

After Rendering with Copic Marker and Water colour pencils you have something beautiful that you can use in any format to display to customers or buying teams when you have meetings with potential customers. Of course this is the fun side of Fashion Design because there is a lot more work in actually making the collection. Especially pattern making and toiling. Then you might even want to make your whole collection yourself which is a massive undertaking.

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