Jean Paul Gaultier

Image from Vogue

French born designer Jean Paul Gaultier was never formally trained but from sheer talent was picked up in the 1970’s by Pierre Cardin then in 1971 worked with Jean Patou and Jacques Esterel before releasing his first signature collection in 1976. Jean Paul Gaultier was playful and fun in his design and inspired by popular culture. He influenced streetwear in the 80’s. Gaultier was popularised by his use of unusual models and his introduction of the man skirt.

Gaultier was the creative director of Hermes from 2003-2010.

In 2017 Jean Paul Gaultier released his Fall winter 2017/2018 collection

Pierre Cardin

Image from Pierre Cardin

Italian born designer Pierre Cardin (born 2.7.1922 Pietro Cardin) moved to France from when he was 2 and grew up in Saint Etienne. 
In 1945 moves to France and begins work for Paquin and the Schiaparelli. In 1946 he was hired as a tailor by Christian Dior and privately designs masks and costumes for the movie beauty and the beast La Belle et La Bête. 
In 1950 he starts his own company designing masks and costumes for the theatre 

In 1954 he designs the bubble dress which is a global sensation and opens his own Parisian boutique Eve. 

In 1959 Pierre Cardin releases his first women’s ready to wear collection. 

In 1960 Pierre Cardin releases his first men’s ready to wear collection “Cylindre or cylinder”.

In 1963 Pierre Cardin releases his first ready to wear womens haute couture collection. 
In 1966 Pierre Cardin releases his first children’s collection using triplets as models from Paris.

In 1972 he releases his first men’s perfume “Pour Monsieur” 

In 1977, 1979 & 1982 receives the gold thimble of French Haute Couture from Cartier. 

In 2017 Pierre Cardin has been designing for 70 years. 

Here are the latest Designs of Pierre Cardin 

Mindfulness

Image from Vital
Mindfulness has developed over the last couple of years. It is the lifestyle of living in the now. The term mindfulness is broadly what professionals are trying to teach people through such techniques as meditation and cognitive behaviour therapy. 

It’s basically teaching your mind to be present in the now when your body and mind is wanting to wander to whatever else you have to do. 
Mindfulness is where you are aware.  In the moment you are aware about what you are doing and whatever it may be that you are doing you are fully present.

Training your brain to be fully aware in the moment is a technique that anyone can use to relax the brains reaction to the harsh realities of social expectation and stress caused from day to day living.

Slowing down your reaction to the world by taking things one thing at a time and pausing to breathe can really relax any person with heightened stress levels. 
If you slow down and control your reaction it will in the long term cause you much less stress. For instance if you miss the train instead of over reacting and stressing about what you can’t control. No problem, just catch the next train and don’t stress. If you have to get somewhere but want to be early but also don’t want to pay tolls to drive the fast way. Just relax and take the non toll way and take the extra ten minutes to get where you need to go. These are pretty simplified examples but in a full of stress world reacting badly or being quick to act can actually cause more problems in the future.

Keep walking inspiration

If we are facing in the right direction, all we have to do is keep on walking. ~Buddhist Saying

Being Productive by tricking your brain

Productivity is the accountability of yourself on what you get done. Being productive isn’t just what you can achieve in your business. It’s how you can be productive at home as well as in your studies. 

For years I have procrastinated before completing massive projects. Once the massive project is finished I always look back and think omg I could of completed that project weeks ago but for some reason I work myself up. I think about every single aspect from what could go wrong to what could go right and meanwhile my house and washing becomes very clean as I procrastinate with other jobs.
I actually think productivity is very important so have invested in a guide called “being more productive” HBR guide to. Focus on the right work, stop procrastinating, and get more done. Harvard business review press.  This guide is written by numerous business specialists who can I say know exactly what they are talking about. 
Within reading the first 3 chapters I have already increased my productivity and am looking forward to the following chapters to help me get through the piles of work I have at home to complete. 
So just a short blog in dedication but I’ll drop a hint from the book. Firstly figure out how stressed you are. A little bit of stress is good to get you going but I was something like triple extra stressed. So then when you become extra stressed your productivity actually goes down. So for me it was as simple as organising my work area and getting a cup of coffee and not concentrating on all the work I had to get done. Just concentrating on one thing at a time off my list of work to do. So if you concentrate too much on everything at once your productivity is going to come to a screeching halt. You need to take one thing at a time. Be calm and relaxed and convince your brain you have less to do in order to do more. 

Fabric choices for plus size formal garments

If you are a plus size you need to make sure you choose the right thickness and quality of fabric to suit your body. You can’t just buy a thin shiny satin. It just won’t look right on a plus size. Always go with matte and do not risk on an especially shiny fabric. A thin silk might drape lovely on a size 10 model but on a plus size will drag on your hips and lumps and bumps excentuating all the parts of your body that you do not want excentuated. You need to purchase heavier fabrics or fabrics that are stiffer that can create more panelled garments that draw attention to your face or bust if you want to draw attention away from stomach and hips. Also if you insist on a certain thin fabric buy a light interfacing that is the same thickness as your garment fabric that will move with your body. the thinner the fabric and the interfacing on a fitted garment the more attention will be drawn to your shape where the fabric clings to your body. Better to choose a heavier silk or rayon or even a thick taffeta rather than a light draped fabric. Remember that a dressmaker cannot improve on your figure if you are plus sized. They can’t magically transform you into a size you are not. Be realistic in fabric choice and in choosing the style you are after. A line always compliments a plus sized woman. Taking the dress in skin tight will never make you look better. It will only make you look worse if your body is plus sized. Choose something fitted but not tight on your body. Tight makes bulges move to other areas that do not compliment you. If you want a light fabric use a nice chiffon to go over the top of the main fabric. That means you get the softer look you are after but also your body has the heavier fabric offering structure to your bust. Without structure your bust will not be held in place.

The bridal lace heirachy- know what your wearing

Why wear a dress if you don’t know what it’s made of. The bridal lace heirachy will help you define what you are trying on and why your dress has more or less value than others. From chantilly to eyelet, let’s find out what your wearing. Lace ranges from cheap and nasty $10 per metre to average $130-$200 and expensive $500+ per metre. So it’s hard to value exactly by a name. If you can identify where it was from at the time of purchase you have a rough idea. China generally means cheap. France, Italy, Spain generally are more expensive and luxurious as the quality is much better. 

Alençon

The “queen of lace,” this French style (which dates back to the 16th century) has a distinct floral pattern outlined with corded detail. Usually three dimensional and embellished with seed pearls and sequins.

Example from https://instagram.com/p/BRy7wDhAeoG/

Chantilly
Named after its origin in Chantilly, France, this delicate and dainty lace features flowers and ribbons on a plain tulle background. It’s popular for sleeves and overlay, since its sheerness gives off a romantic appeal. Just a feel good lace. Absolutely perfect for hemlines and jackets!

Example from https://instagram.com/p/BTowiyhg9Mj/

Eyelet
This cotton fabric is perfect for summer. Innocent sweet vibe. Embroidered cutouts give it a vintage feel, while scalloped edges provide an vintage heirloom quality. Since it’s very breathable, it’s the ideal choice for an outdoor, warm-weather wedding.

Example from 

https://instagram.com/p/BTgjpl2gcFB/

Guipure
Cotton-based with heavy woven patterns, this lace can look a little like macramé. It’s heavier than most lace and is usually limited to structured silhouettes, but its thick patterns make a dramatic statement.

Example from 

https://instagram.com/p/BTq0VNsAsVz/

Honiton
A type of guipure, this particular style looks the real world for inspiration and it’s created by joining together round, heavy floral and leaf motifs almost as if it were woven amongst a web. It tends to lend a royal vintage feel as popular amongst the royals ( check out prince George’s christening gown)

Example from 

https://instagram.com/p/BTOD9tDBtLi/

Point D’Esprit
To create this lightweight lace, small oval or square dots are woven in a scattered pattern into a tulle mesh fabric. Very sweet and less statement. Ideally collaborated into some design that is sweet and subtle. 

Example from

https://instagram.com/p/BJTwJmyAHqC/

Schiffli
Another lightweight style, this machine-made lace has an allover delicate embroidered design. It looks great both as an overlay or as edging on a sleeve, hem or bodice of a gown.

Example from

https://instagram.com/p/31xPx6vsT3//

Venise
Also known as “Venetian point” or “gros point,” this heavy needlepoint-type design uses floral sprays, foliage or geometric patterns and is often said to look like carved ivory.

Example from 

https://instagram.com/p/BQBERQ8go9E/

MEET THE NEW KID ON THE BLOCK CRBN UNISEX STREETWEAR + collabs

Making an entrance onto the Australian Fashion arena late in 2016 we have CRBN with lead designer Whitney Duan. The label is so different to regular Australian fashion labels. Which is what makes it so very interesting.

They are here to change the rules on gender.

So you are curious? How can CRBN change the rules on gender?

Well with time staking . Men are wearing skirts. Women are wearing the pants and actually whatever they want.  I mean why as a female should I wear a dress? I want to wear a skort today and I don’t care!

I want to see men in dresses not just because free balling is comfortable but why not? The only thing that has been holding back men from wearing dresses is that dresses aren’t made to fit the male form by the consumer market. Hence why CRBN is a game changer. Men can choose to wear what they want from their range. The fact physically it is a dress or a skirt is just a label and a social image that has been underpinned by oppressive social expectations handed down through generations . Its just a name we gave it to identify what it is but would it be so bad if we named a pant a skirt and a skirt a pant. In the end its the same fabric with the same stitches, the same cotton that holds it together. Just like the difference in gender. Gender is just a label male, female and most recently we have added in no gender which btw is still a label. All these names and boundaries we create ourselves as humans.

‘We have so many people wanting to dress and expand their new style from mundane commercialism. Plus with drag queens now tapping into the mainstream industry with Ru Paul’s drag race/ we have an untouched market’

 Luka Davis

Melbourne Designer & Stylist

Instagram@luka.davis

 

Whitney’s background is in Philosophy and Art History so her perception of gender is quite in tune with a general move by society to become less gender specific. We are after all a society who wants whatever we want when we want it. Socially we just want to be able to wear what we want without the backlash of social expectations. In fashion ‘different’ is the new ‘cool’. So as unisex clothing gains momentum and is starting to be seen as the new cool there are so many self styled innovators who are picking up the product and trying it. CRBN is a blend between fitted and baggy streetwear with styles you could wear everyday casually or dress up to go out and party in with an emphasis  on comfort. Now that we already have so many people out there who are innovators gaining awareness of the product and trying samples of unisex clothing in their day to day lives. Its time for early adopters like you and I to support unisex clothing and pick up the trend and deliver it to the growth stage and mass market before unisex is totally accepted and adopted into our society. So I ask you. Can you challenge your own thinking that you have been taught from birth? Can you try something different to see how it fits and feels? If your not excited by now to break the rules and kick back the boundaries of social expectation then I’m probably howling to the moon.

While working alongside CRBN as one of a select group of consultant pattern makers I sat in on quite a few late night fittings and meetings behind the end product. In collaboration of their first range I found Whitney and her partner radio spokesperson and author Eden Duan to be quite unique individuals in fact their strong bond and communication was the back bone of getting things moving at the rate that such a large collection could be developed. Developing a range this large requires so much time and effort away from regular day to day existence and as a power couple they worked together to make CRBN from just an idea to something tangible something that any designer could be proud of. Whitney Duan designer of CRBN is the new kid on the block. I am loving her cool style and needed to share it. She actually gets how contemporary humans are feeling. Lets just erase some of the labels and start again. Fashion is now geometric lines, contemporary, rule breaking, minimalistic, unisex clothing.

Author: Ashleigh Renee Evans (Secret Culture)

all links:

Buy CRBN now https://www.crbnstudios.com/

Follow CRBN on Instagram @crbnstudios

Follow CRBN on facebook https://www.facebook.com/crbnstudios/

Follow this blog for more of my fashion blogging & tutorials

All photos from official CRBN Instagram.

Models have links in Instagram for recognition.

 

 

photo from insta @peajitamornpanna

follow my Instagram @secretculture

follow my facebook Secret Culture Beauty and fashion

 

My latest custom designer formal gown for a year 10 formal

The dress is beautiful. Absolutely stunning! Embellished in gorgeous Swarovski crystals and fine lace. The silhouette is off the shoulder panelled with a gorgeous fishtail with lace and Swarovski detail. The bodice is covered in lace as well and embellished lightly in each flower with Swarovski crystals.

 

Secret Culture Basic Denim Summer Shorts Collection 2016

Some of the photos from our Secret photo shoot have been released. Shop the limited edition capsule collection at  Secret Culture Shop

   
    Secret Culture Basic Shredded Denim Shorts White $29.99 free postage in Australia 
Purchase at http://www.secretcultureshop.com
Available in sizes 10,12,14
Size 10 waist 69cm, hip 86cm, length 26cm
Size 12 waist 73cm, hip 88cm, length 27cm
Size 14 waist 77cm, hip 90cm, length 28cm 

Comment Sold under image and private message to purchase on Ig
Visit Facebook http://www.facebook.com/DesignTeamSecretCulture/
Proffessional photgraphy by Lavana Dancer IG lavanadancer website http://www.lightmagiclove.com/

Modelling by Jummy Esther IG le_meiux_nigrette_

http://instagram.com/le_meiux_nigrette_
@secretculture @le_meiux_nigrette_ @lavanadancer 

#denim #shredded #shorts #short #summer #como #sydney #dreams #secrets #frayed #distresseddenim #holes #jeans #club #night lib #picnic #party #beach #casual #sexy #hot #basic
   
   Secret Culture Basic Baby Blue Booty Shorts $29.99 free postage in Australia
Available in sizes 10,12,14
Size 10 waist 72cm, hip 94cm, length 31cm
Size 12 waist 77cm, hip 99cm, length 32cm
Size 14 waist 83cm, hip 104cm, length 33cm
Purchase at http://www.secretcultureshop.com
Comment Sold under image and private message to purchase on Ig
Visit Facebook http://www.facebook.com/DesignTeamSecretCulture/
Proffessional photgraphy by Lavana Dancer IG lavanadancer website http://www.lightmagiclove.com/

Modelling by Jummy Esther IG le_meiux_nigrette_

http://instagram.com/le_meiux_nigrette_

Modelling by Will Besly IG

Willbesly

http://instagram.com/willbesly

@secretculture @le_meiux_nigrette_ @lavanadancer @willbesly

#denim #shredded #shorts #short #summer #como #sydney #dreams #secrets #frayed #distresseddenim #holes #jeans #club #night lib #picnic #party #beach #casual #sexy #hot #basic#fitness #health #wellness #live #love #bebeautiful #fashion